Review originally published by Columbus Underground, written by Miriam Bowers Abbott
At the new Dim Sum Asian Bistro in Grandview, there’s no question about what’s on the menu: Dim Sum. The newest project from the Ty Ginger team is dedicated to the art of small-plate dining with a robust menu of treats at a price point that makes multiples manageable. This being so, for those hankering for bigger plates and less decision-making, there is a selection of entrees too, and you’ll find the classics like General Tso’s and an option to customize your own Kung Pao offering with the meat combination of choice.
The new spot boasts the modern lines you’d expect from its Grandview neighborhood; open ceilings with modern brick walls punctuated by pictures of dim sum to help provide context. While there are no classic dim sum carts, the menu does have images of the dim sum offerings, which helps make it easier to jump in.
That dim sum selection has plenty of familiar appetizers among its options, so those who are new to the tradition will spy offerings such as wontons, spring rolls, and potstickers with some relief. Those Potstickers ($5.95) are exemplary. An order provides four perfectly pan-crisped crescents; tender pockets stuffed with seasoned pork. It’s a simple combination that’s executed with finesse.
But let’s get serious with some Scallion Pancakes ($4.95). Of all the onion variations in the world, scallions are the absolute best ones. When sauteed, their green fronds take on a velvety texture and flavor that delivers all the joy of onions with zero burn. Scallion pancakes demonstrate this aptitude with soft scallions lushly layered inside the pancake. Again, it’s a simple combination that yields an intensely pleasant sensory experience.
Moving to the chive line (also in the allium family with scallions and onions), there are Chive Dumplings ($6.95). The shrimp within them could actually be the headliner here, as it provides the heft that carries the mild chives.
From here, the dim sum menu expands in all sorts of directions: There’s chicken feet, pork intestines, and there’s sweet treats such as coconut mochi and matcha crepes.
For now, let’s move to the entrée menu, as it is a significant feature of the restaurant. You’ll spy a Moo Goo Gai Pan ($16.95) on the menu. It’s a delightful blend of tender chicken breast with mushrooms, napa cabbage, snow peas, and water chestnuts. This is teamed, not with a common dark, spicy sauce, but instead with a translucent “white” sauce that pulls it together while still showcasing the unique flavors of the ingredients.
And if only General Tso’s ($16.95) can hit the spot, Dim Sum has you covered. It’s not a fast-food rendition, but a thoughtfully executed combination of lightly battered quality dark meat chicken chunks with scallions, combined with a spiked savory sauce.
You can round things out with bubble teas and bubble slushies (that’s a slushie with bubbles at the bottom) or find something with more firepower at its full bar.
Dim Sum Asian Bistro can be found at 775 Yard Street in Grandview. It’s open weekdays from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. On weekends, it’s open from 10:30 a.m. until 9 p.m. It offers dim sum and dinner menus, with an added lunch menu featuring some midday combos.
All photos by Ashley Kimmel